Hill Country BBQ

Cuisine: Barbecue
Location: 30 W 26th St b/w Broadway & Madison Ave
Phone #: (212) 255 4544
Method: Eat In
Price Range: $$
Food: B+
Value: B+
Service/Atmosphere: A-
Overall Rating: B+

Hill Country BBQ is a very cool eating experience that I would recommend everyone try at least once (if not for the food alone than moreso for the memories). Its food and layout aims to emulate that of a place called Kreuz Market in Lockhart, Texas, which is apparently the barbecue capital of the world. Now, let me clarify what I mean when I refer to the Hill Country layout: much like Katz's Deli (review forthcoming), when you walk in you are given a blank ticket. After finding a few open spots at a picnic table in the seating area to plop down your stuff and order drinks from the waitress (drinks are the only thing brought to your table), you take your ticket and wait in line at the meat counter. Once you get to the front of the line, you tell the butcher exactly what you want (counter-style by the pound). The butcher then slices everything fresh, marks down what you ordered on your ticket and wraps everything up in butcher paper for you to haul back to your table. The sides are served in 8, 16 or 32oz containers from a separate counter and the desserts are at a separate counter as well. Once you have finished all of your ordering, you can finally bring everything back to your table and begin your feast. As you exit the restaurant, you have no choice but to pass by the cash register, where you are asked for your ticket and billed accordingly. It may seem like somewhat of an ordeal to go through to get your food, but you'll realize it pays off once you take your first bite.

What I Liked
First and foremost I am a big fan of the layout I just described. It creates a dynamic environment with everyone walking around deciding what they want and I think it makes the eating experience that much more fun. As far as the food itself goes, it is excellent barbecue. If this is authentic, Texas style BBQ, then I guess Texas style barbecue is an extremely distinctive, smoky, dry rub flavor (according to their website, all their meat is "smoked low and slow over Texas post oak"). My personal preference is to have my barbecue somewhat saucy, so if you are anything like me then you will probably need to add a generous dose of BBQ sauce and/or hot sauce to whatever meat ends up on your tray.

The Lean Brisket ($19.50/lb) at Hill Country is ridiculously tender and flavorful, especially when you add the aforementioned sauces to compliment the dry rub. The Pork Spare Ribs ($12/lb) are also super tender and the meat falls right off the bone as you take each bite. True to their roots, Hill Country serves every order of meat with a serving of Texas Toast as well as Saltine crackers. I love putting some of the brisket meat and rib meat on the bread, slathering on some BBQ and hot sauce and as I take each succulent bite hoping it never ends. The last items worth mentioning here are the Longhorn Cheddar Mac & Cheese, which is super thick and cheesy, and the Chili (both are $5.50/8oz, $10.50/16oz, $20/32oz), which is spicy and meaty (but not excessively thick or heavy) . If you're feeling gluttonous try heaping some mac and cheese or chili (or both) onto your brisket/rib open faced sandwich.

If you're feeling overwhelmed about what to order, try the Pitmaster's combo ($25). It is a pretty good deal and is a good way to try out a bunch of different menu items (it includes 4 different meats and your choice of 2 sides). If you've somehow become extra hungry (and you're feeling like embarking on your own Man Vs Food challenge), then try your best to consume the "Feed Your Face Challenge." If you finish all 3 pounds of meat (3/4lb each of Lean Brisket, Moist Brisket, Beef Shoulder & Prime Rib) as well as two 16oz sides, a cupcake and 32oz soft drink in less than an hour, then you won't have to pay the $85 bill. If you (more likely) can't finish it all, then make sure you settle up on your way out (and tip your server accordingly). Good luck taking it all down!

What Could Use Work
Although it is tough when comparing to the best item on the menu (more on that below), it is hard to overlook how dry and disappointing the Original Kreuz Market Sausages ($6.00 for a 1/3 lb link) were. Not only was the taste not there, the consistency was also bordering on gross (both times I tried them). Other than the Mac & Cheese and Chili, I wasn't too fond of any of the other sides, least of all the Hot German Potatoes ($4.50/8oz, $8.50/16oz, $16/32oz) which were pretty mushy and tasteless. Unfortunately I must put two of the meat choices in this section as well, because both the Beef Back Ribs ($11.75/lb) and the Moist Brisket ($22/lb) are ridiculously fatty and just not my style. As far as brisket and ribs go at Hill Country, stick with the Lean Brisket and Pork Spare Ribs.

Killed It!
In my opinion it is imperative to always order at least one Jalapeño Cheese Kreuz Market Sausage ($6.50 for a 1/3 lb link), or if you have room you should get a few links (or as they call them "rings"). Instead of trying to vary it up and also ordering one of the Originals, I would recommend just ordering extra Jalapeño sausages instead. They're that good (and the Originals are that average). These Sausages are the only meat items on the menu that are imported directly from Kreuz's in Texas. As their name suggests, these sausages are deliciously cheesy and spicy, while also being tender and a bit crispy when you first bite in.